{"id":10888,"date":"2026-10-26T09:20:58","date_gmt":"2026-10-26T17:20:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/merino-not-fibre-name-wool-coat-labelling\/"},"modified":"2026-10-27T11:36:09","modified_gmt":"2026-10-27T19:36:09","slug":"merino-not-fibre-name-wool-coat-labelling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/merino-not-fibre-name-wool-coat-labelling\/","title":{"rendered":"Merino Is Not a Fibre Name: Labelling a Wool Coat for Two Markets"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>A wool coat sold in both markets needs two different fibre lines, and the words that cause trouble are not nylon and viscose \u2014 they are merino, lambswool, shetland, donegal and pure. The United Kingdom keeps a closed list of fibre names in Annex I to assimilated Regulation (EU) No 1007\/2011, so a breed, a district or a cloth cannot stand in the fibre line. The United States answers the same question through a separate statute, the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, which reaches any product represented as containing wool. One 90 metre tweed run, declared at 97% wool and 3% polyamide, shows where the two rulebooks agree. The sections below take the fibre line, the one-fibre claim, the tolerance and the animal-origin phrase, then the six documents a mill returns before the care labels are printed.<\/p>\n<h2>Which Words Are Allowed in a Fibre Line?<\/h2>\n<p>A fibre line is the part of a care label that names each fibre and gives that fibre\u2019s share of the finished weight. In the United Kingdom, only names listed in Annex I to assimilated Regulation (EU) No 1007\/2011 may be used in that field. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.businesscompanion.info\/en\/quick-guides\/goods\/labelling-of-textiles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">According to the Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012<\/a>, every textile product sold in England, Scotland and Wales must carry a fibre indication, and a jacket with a lining needs a line for the shell and a second line for the lining. Where two or more fibres make up 85% of the finished product, each fibre is named and followed by a percentage, as in \u201cwool 80%, polyamide 15%, cashmere 5%\u201d. A coat reading \u201cwool 80%, polyamide 15%, cashmere 5%\u201d on the shell and \u201cviscose 100%\u201d on the lining is complete. A coat reading only \u201cmerino\u201d is not.<\/p>\n<h2>Why Are Merino, Lambswool, Shetland and Donegal Not Fibre Names?<\/h2>\n<p>Merino is a breed of sheep, not a fibre. Lambswool names the first clip of a young animal, Shetland names an island breed, Donegal names a yarn effect built from coloured neps, and tweed names a cloth. None of the five words appears in Annex I, so none of the five may replace wool in the fibre line. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.businesscompanion.info\/en\/quick-guides\/goods\/labelling-of-textiles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">According to Business Companion<\/a>, the guidance service run by the Chartered Trading Standards Institute and reviewed in July 2026, decorative matter that makes up 7% or less of a product is excluded from the fibre content indication. A woven-in fleck can use that exclusion while the fleck stays decorative; a 4% polyamide binder in the same cloth is a fibre and must be declared. \u201c100% merino\u201d on a hangtag, with no wool basis on the care label, is the failure this guidance catches most often.<\/p>\n<figure>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/fursone.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/\u5fae\u4fe1\u56fe\u7247_20260908094837_102_4-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"Fabric specification sheet with tweed swatches and Pantone references, used to check fibre percentages against the care label before printing\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" loading=\"lazy\"><figcaption>The specification sheet is where the fibre line is fixed: breed words belong in the swatch notes, percentages belong in the label field.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>What Does the United States Ask For Instead?<\/h2>\n<p>The United States regulates wool through a separate statute rather than a closed list. A wool product is any product that contains, purports to contain, or is represented as containing wool or recycled wool, and the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 reaches a tweed coat even when wool is a minority share. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.law.cornell.edu\/uscode\/text\/15\/68\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">According to 15 U.S.C. \u00a768<\/a>, the required fibre content states percentages of wool, recycled wool and other fibres, and merino, lambswool or shetland carry no weight in that required line. The same statute also requires the country where the product was processed or manufactured, a field that sits beside the fibre line rather than inside it. A US buyer reading \u201c100% merino wool\u201d therefore sees a breed word where a generic fibre name and a percentage are owed. The gap bites on a two-market coat: one shell passes a London review and fails a New York one, because the American label wants a percentage on every fibre.<\/p>\n<h3>How Does the US Act Define Wool, Recycled Wool and Virgin Wool?<\/h3>\n<p>Wool means the fibre from the fleece of a sheep or lamb, and the statute extends the same word to the hair of the Angora and cashmere goat. According to 15 U.S.C. \u00a768, recycled wool is fibre recovered from a wool product that a consumer never used, or from one that a consumer used and that was then returned to fibre. Virgin wool and new wool are reserved for fibre never reclaimed from any spun, woven, knitted or felted product, and the 2014 wording of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.law.cornell.edu\/cfr\/text\/16\/300.20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">16 CFR 300.20<\/a> leaves no margin on that condition. Where a garment is composed wholly of one fibre, all or 100% may be used, but <a href=\"https:\/\/www.law.cornell.edu\/cfr\/text\/16\/300.17\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">16 CFR 300.17<\/a> allows 5% of fibre ornamentation and then requires the phrase \u201cexclusive of ornamentation\u201d immediately after the fibre name. Only the speciality fibres in section 2(b) of the Act \u2014 camel, alpaca, llama, vicuna and Angora or cashmere goat hair \u2014 may stand in place of wool, and each carries its percentage.<\/p>\n<h3>How Do the Same 90 Metres Read on Two Labels?<\/h3>\n<p>A two-column test case is the fastest way to see the split. The composition below is a 90 metre run of 97% wool and 3% polyamide tweed. According to 16 CFR 300.17 and the 2012 UK Regulations, the same cloth takes different words on each side of the Atlantic, and neither market permits a one-fibre claim at 97%.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Field<\/th>\n<th>UK label<\/th>\n<th>US label<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Fibre content<\/td>\n<td>wool 97%, polyamide 3%<\/td>\n<td>97% wool, 3% other fiber<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>One-fibre claim<\/td>\n<td>pure, single fibre only<\/td>\n<td>100%, single fibre plus 5% ornamentation<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Breed or cloth word<\/td>\n<td>merino, copy only<\/td>\n<td>merino, copy only<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Wholesale paperwork<\/td>\n<td>invoice may carry the line<\/td>\n<td>invoice may replace the label<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Both columns keep the breed word out of the required field, and both columns let the invoice carry the composition to a trade buyer rather than a sewn label. The American column is the stricter of the two on wording: \u201cother fiber\u201d is the default designation for a fibre below 5%, so the polyamide cannot be written out by name on a consumer label even though the mill\u2019s own statement names it.<\/p>\n<h2>Is \u201cPure\u201d the Same as \u201c100%\u201d?<\/h2>\n<p>Pure is a one-fibre claim in the United Kingdom and 100% is the American equivalent, but the two words are policed by different arithmetic. The UK guidance is blunt: pure may only be used where the garment is made of a single fibre. In the United States, 16 CFR 300.17 permits all or 100% only where the product is composed wholly of one kind of fibre, with 5% allowed for fibre ornamentation and the qualifying phrase attached, and the 1980 amendment to that section still governs the wording. The arithmetic is where the markets part. The American tolerance on stated percentages is withdrawn the moment a label claims one fibre, so a 97\/3 cloth cannot be dressed up as 100% wool in either market, and \u201cpure wool\u201d on a 97\/3 shell is the same error wearing a British spelling.<\/p>\n<h2>When Does the 3% Tolerance Not Save You?<\/h2>\n<p>A tolerance is the permitted gap between the percentage printed on a label and the percentage a laboratory measures in the garment. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.law.cornell.edu\/cfr\/text\/16\/303.43\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">According to 16 CFR 303.43<\/a>, a 3% deviation is allowed on any stated fibre, so a line reading 40% wool may test anywhere from 37% to 43%. That tolerance collapses the moment a label claims a single fibre: 16 CFR 303.43(c) removes the allowance where the product is represented as composed wholly of one fibre, except for permissive ornamentation. In practice, the order follows. Print 97% wool and 3% other fiber on a 97\/3 cloth, keep the mill\u2019s composition statement on file, and test one garment before the bulk ships, following the document trail set out in the <a href=\"\/es\/invoice-not-proof-fibre-composition-file\/\">fibre claim file<\/a>. A tester who measures 94% wool has not found a fault in the cloth; that garment has simply left the window the label promised.<\/p>\n<h2>What Must a \u201c5% Cashmere\u201d Line Prove?<\/h2>\n<p>Cashmere is a fibre name that carries measurements with it. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.law.cornell.edu\/cfr\/text\/16\/300.19\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">According to 16 CFR 300.19<\/a>, cashmere may be used only for the fine dehaired undercoat of the cashmere goat, with an average diameter not above 19 microns, no more than 3% of cashmere fibres above 30 microns in diameter, and a coefficient of variation around the mean no higher than 24%. A mill that writes 5% cashmere on a composition statement is asserting instrument data, not a shade. A brand that repeats the percentage on a care label inherits the assertion, and the 2014 revision of that section did not soften it. The chain to request is the dehairing lot, the diameter test and the report date, in that order, because a percentage without a report is a marketing sentence. A mill that cannot produce the report on request is telling you something about the other percentages on the same sheet.<\/p>\n<h2>Where Does the Animal-Origin Phrase Go?<\/h2>\n<p>A wool coat becomes a mixed product when the collar is fur, the buttons are horn or the trim is leather, and the textile label then carries a second obligation. According to Business Companion, a product containing non-textile parts of animal origin must be marked with the phrase \u201ccontains non-textile parts of animal origin\u201d, and that phrase stays mandatory even when the label also names mink or lambskin. The UK definition of a textile product covers products with at least 80% by weight of textile fibres, so a coat with a modest fur collar remains inside the regime. Mis-describing real fur as faux fur is an offence, and the Cat and Dog Fur Regulations 2008 bar that fur from the market altogether. Put the phrase beside the fibre line, not on a removable hangtag. For example, a coat with a wool shell, a fur collar and horn buttons needs one line for the cloth and one sentence for the animal parts, and both must survive dry cleaning.<\/p>\n<h2>What Should Be Sent to the Mill Before the Labels Are Printed?<\/h2>\n<p>The sequence matters more than the wording. First, ask the mill for a composition statement with each fibre named and its percentage, plus the test report behind any speciality fibre. Second, fix the fibre line in one document and send that document to the label printer, not the tech pack summary. Third, check the country wording against the weaving mill rather than the shipping address, a distinction the <a href=\"\/es\/made-in-italy-china-cloth-origin-rule\/\">origin rule<\/a> article sets out. Fourth, keep pure and 100% off any cloth with a second fibre, because 3% of polyamide is still a declared fibre. Fifth, file the mill statement, the label proof and the garment test together, and sign the release only when all three agree, as the <a href=\"\/es\/care-label-fibre-declaration-vs-garment-test\/\">release note<\/a> describes. According to the 2012 Regulations, that label must also be in English and stay durable, legible, visible and accessible in wear.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A wool coat sold in both markets needs two different fibre lines, and the words that cause trouble are not nylon and viscose \u2014 they are merino, lambswool, shetland, donegal and pure. The United Kingdom keeps a closed list of fibre names in Annex I to assimilated Regulation (EU) No 1007\/2011, so a breed, a &#8230; <a title=\"Merino Is Not a Fibre Name: Labelling a Wool Coat for Two Markets\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/merino-not-fibre-name-wool-coat-labelling\/\" aria-label=\"Leer m\u00e1s sobre Merino Is Not a Fibre Name: Labelling a Wool Coat for Two Markets\">Leer m\u00e1s<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3113,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"rank_math_title":"","rank_math_description":"","rank_math_focus_keyword":"","rank_math_robots":"","rank_math_canonical_url":"","rank_math_facebook_title":"","rank_math_facebook_description":"","rank_math_twitter_title":"","rank_math_twitter_description":"","_yoast_wpseo_title":"","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"","_yoast_wpseo_focuskw":"","_yoast_wpseo_canonical":"","_yoast_wpseo_meta-robots-noindex":"","_yoast_wpseo_meta-robots-nofollow":"","_yoast_wpseo_opengraph-title":"","_yoast_wpseo_opengraph-description":"","_yoast_wpseo_twitter-title":"","_yoast_wpseo_twitter-description":"","_aioseo_title":"","_aioseo_description":"","_aioseo_keywords":"","_aioseo_robots_default":"","_aioseo_robots_noindex":"","_aioseo_og_title":"","_aioseo_og_description":"","_aioseo_twitter_title":"","_aioseo_twitter_description":"","aiosp_title":"","aiosp_description":"","aiosp_keywords":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_genesis_title":"","_genesis_description":"","_genesis_canonical":"","_genesis_noindex":"","_genesis_nofollow":"","slim_seo":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[311,314],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10888","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fabric-knowledge","category-production-craft"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10888","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10888"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10888\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11003,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10888\/revisions\/11003"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3113"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10888"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10888"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10888"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}