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What the report has to contain<\/h2>\n
Ask for a report that states the test method, identifies the laboratory and its accreditation, names the sample by the identifier you sealed on it, and lists the result fibre by fibre with the method used for each. A single line that says the cloth is wool is not a report; a table with percentages and a method reference is. Where a blend is involved, the interesting information is usually in the smaller percentages: a claim of wool with a small amount of another fibre reads one way on a label and another way to a customer, and the difference is the number of decimal places in the report, not the mill\u2019s summary of it.<\/p>\n
Blends that use recycled fibre deserve a second look. Recycled wool, described in the reference on shoddy<\/a>, is made by shredding existing fabric and re-spinning the fibres, and the rules around it distinguish between reprocessed and reused wool, which is a labelling distinction rather than a technical one. If your cloth contains recycled wool, the claim on your label has to use the term your market expects, and the mill\u2019s sheet should say which term applies. Ask for that in writing before the label goes to print, because changing a label after the cloth is woven is the expensive version of the same conversation.<\/p>\n A content report describes the yarn that was tested. If the remaining cloth is woven from a different yarn lot, the report no longer describes the order, and the buyer\u2019s compliance file has a gap in the middle of it. So ask which yarn lots are allocated to the balance, whether they match the lot in the tested piece, and what happens if one runs short. A mill that plans to substitute a lot halfway through an order should tell you before the weaving, not after the report is filed.<\/p>\n Keep the yarn lot numbers with the report and with the roll tickets. When a customer asks in a year which yarn the cloth was made from, the answer comes from the mill\u2019s records and from your own file, and having both makes the answer a lookup rather than a search. If the mill cannot name the lots for the remaining cloth, that inability is itself worth knowing before you commit the balance.<\/p>\n The content claim is the part of this exercise that carries legal weight, which is why the sequence matters. Labelling rules in the main markets require fibre content to be accurate within a tolerance, and the tolerance is small; a claim that is a few points high is not a rounding error, it is a mislabelled product. So the test comes first, the label second, and the label is written to match the report rather than to match the mill\u2019s sales sheet. On a first order this is straightforward; on a repeat order it is the reason to keep testing rather than trusting the last report.<\/p>\n Ask the mill to confirm whether the content is the same across the colours in the order. A mill that changes a yarn between colours, or that uses a different blend for a lighter shade, produces a shipment where one colour meets the claim and another does not, and the label applies to the cloth you sell rather than to the order as a whole. The fibre content section of the site\u2019s guide to fibre content labels for tweed and knit<\/a> explains how these claims are usually expressed; the test is what tells you whether your cloth can carry the claim at all.<\/p>\n Send the requirement to the mill before the balance is woven, in the same message as the yarn lots, and write it into the purchase order for the next run: a sealed sample cut from each delivery, tested by an accredited laboratory, with the report supplied to the buyer. Once it is a line in the order, the cost sits where it belongs and nobody has to argue about it during a delivery week. Ask also who pays for the test: on a first order the buyer usually pays, and on repeats it is worth agreeing in advance so the sample is not delayed by a conversation at the wrong moment.<\/p>\n Then decide who receives the original report. If the customer\u2019s buyer is the one who needs it, the report should name your company as the party who submitted the sample and include the customer\u2019s reference, so their compliance file shows the chain from the roll to the laboratory. A report with no reference to the order is a document that has to be explained every time it is produced.<\/p>\n Seal a piece from each delivery and keep it for the life of the order, labelled with the roll numbers and the date. Retained samples are how a dispute is settled a year later, when the cloth is already cut and the only physical evidence left is a sealed bag in your own store. They also let a second laboratory test the same cloth if the first result is challenged, which is the one thing a mill\u2019s sheet can never offer.<\/p>\n Keep them dry and dark, with the moth protection the site covers for wool storage<\/a>, because a retained sample that has been eaten or sun-bleached is not evidence. A sealed bag inside a labelled box in a cupboard costs nothing and answers the question that customers ask most often: can you show me what you actually received.<\/p>\n If the test comes back below your claim, the decision is commercial rather than technical. The options are to change the label to match the result, to sell the cloth with a corrected description, or to return it if the gap is large enough to break the contract. What is not an option is to keep the original label, because the label is what the end customer relies on and what a market inspector reads. Decide with your customer in the loop, since the customer may accept a corrected description more easily than a delayed delivery.<\/p>\n If the test comes back at or above the claim, file it with the retained sample and the yarn lots, and send a copy to the customer\u2019s buyer if they asked for it. Then set the next test for the next order rather than assuming this one covers it, because the yarn changes and the reports age.<\/p>\n Send one message to the mill. Name the order and the cloth. Say the customer\u2019s buyer requires a content report and the mill\u2019s sheet alone is not enough, and state the hold in one sentence: the balance is not woven until the yarn lots and the test are settled. Name what you need. First, the yarn lot numbers allocated to the remaining cloth. Second, confirmation of which lots were used in the piece being tested. Third, a copy of any previous third-party report for those yarns, if one exists. Fourth, the answer on whether the content is the same across all colours in the order, and whether the blend uses virgin, reprocessed or reused wool.<\/p>\n A release is your note that your sealed sample is at the laboratory, that the yarn lots for the balance are recorded, and that the label wording will be set from the report. A mill sheet, a supplier declaration and a promise that the yarn has not changed do not release the hold, because none of them are about the cloth you will receive.<\/p>\n Keep the report, the sealed samples, the yarn lot list and the label wording in the order folder. Fibre content is the claim a customer can test for a modest fee, and the file from this order is what makes the next one a routine check instead of an argument about a single sheet of paper.<\/p>\n Lecture connexe : Dye Lots and Colour Consistency in Wool Tweed<\/a><\/p>\n Lecture connexe : Fibre Content and Labelling on Wool Fabric Orders<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Yarn lots and the balance of the order<\/h2>\n
Test first, then print the label<\/h2>\n
Make the test part of the order, not a favour<\/h2>\n
Keep a retained sample from every shipment<\/h2>\n
What to do with the cloth you have<\/h2>\n
Write the hold the same day<\/h2>\n