{"id":9103,"date":"2026-08-23T05:00:40","date_gmt":"2026-08-23T13:00:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/double-cloth-tweed-reversible-coats\/"},"modified":"2026-09-26T02:55:16","modified_gmt":"2026-09-26T10:55:16","slug":"double-cloth-tweed-reversible-coats","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/fr\/double-cloth-tweed-reversible-coats\/","title":{"rendered":"Tweed en tissu double : tissus r\u00e9versibles pour manteaux"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Double cloth is the fabric that answers a coat design with two questions at once: what the outside looks like, and what the inside feels like. Where a standard coat fabric is one cloth with one face, double cloth is two cloths joined during weaving, so the outside can be a structured herringbone while the inside is a soft flannel, and both are part of the same roll.<\/p>\n

That construction is why double cloth keeps showing up in premium outerwear, but it is also why it costs more and behaves differently at the cutter. This guide explains the structure, what to check before you buy, and when a stock double cloth is the right call versus a custom program.<\/p>\n

\"Premium
Double cloth is two fabrics joined in the weave, so a coat can face one way and line the other.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What double cloth actually is<\/h2>\n

Double cloth is a woven construction where two separate sets of warp and weft are interlaced, creating two distinct layers that are either bound together at intervals or left connected only at the cloth edges. The two faces can use the same yarn or completely different compositions. Many buyers first encounter the idea through knit terminology, and the two are not the same thing; general textile references describe the double-knit and double-woven structures separately, and the distinction matters for how the fabric drapes and how it deforms, which is where a light double knit and a structured double-woven coating will sit very differently on a body. Textile School’s material pages cover the construction families, and the practical sorting question is always the same: is there actually a second face, or is this a heavier single cloth marketed to look reversible?<\/p>\n

The honest test is to open a raw edge or inspect a sample’s cross-section. A true double cloth shows a distinct seam line or interlocking point between the layers, a single heavyweight cloth shows one continuous weave. Sewport’s double knit guide explains how a knitted double structure handles recoil and stretch, and the same logic applies to a woven coating, the structure is what carries the hand feel.<\/p>\n

\"Double
Inside and outside can be two different colors or weights, which is the whole point of the construction.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Why a reversible coat fabric earns its price<\/h2>\n

The case for double cloth is that it removes a lining and adds a reversible option, both of which change the economics of a coat program. A garment that does not need a separate lining saves a sewing operation and fabric weight on the inside, and a coat that can be worn two ways carries more perceived value and a longer season. The price premium on a double cloth is a real weaving cost, two warp systems and two weft systems are slower on the loom than one, and the interlocking points can be a source of snags if the structure is not finished cleanly. At our partner mills in Wenzhou, operating 300+ looms since 2020, double-faced overcoat fabrics sit alongside the woolen overcoat<\/a> and Chanel-style tweed<\/a> collections, and the decision for a coat program is always balance: the reversible payoff against the fabric cost and the cutting care it demands.<\/p>\n

What to check before you order<\/h2>\n

Four checks decide whether a double cloth will work for your coat before bulk money moves. First, confirm it is a true double cloth and not a heavy single, request a cross-section or an open raw edge on a sample. Second, test the two faces separately for colorfastness and pilling; because the visible side and the lining side can be different yarns, one face may pass while the other fails. Third, check seam slippage and interlock strength, a double cloth with weak binding points will pull apart at the shoulder and cuff. Fourth, agree the shrink behavior of the combined structure, two faces with different shrink rates will pucker after a clean. Fursone’s custom manufacturing<\/a> program starts at a 300-metre MOQ with a 7-day sampling cycle, which is enough yardage to run a wash and a seam test on the full double structure before bulk, and ready double-faced cloth can ship from ready stock<\/a> within days, 100,000 meters on hand.<\/p>\n

\"Double
The interlock points need a clean finish; raw edges show the two faces that make the reversibility possible.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Stock double cloth versus a custom program<\/h2>\n

Because double cloth is a heavier construction and slower to weave, a stock double-faced cloth is often the pragmatic route for a coat line. It lets a brand test a reversible silhouette without tying up loom time on development, and it ships fast enough to keep a small launch calendar intact. A custom double cloth buys control: the exact outer pattern, the inner face weight, the fiber blend that gives a specific hand. The trade is the 1,000-meter minimum and the development window. For a coat collection where the face structure is the product, custom is worth it; for a program that needs a reversible option this season, stock wins on speed.<\/p>\n

Frequently asked questions<\/h2>\n
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What is the difference between double cloth and a heavy single cloth?<\/strong>
Double cloth is two separate fabrics joined in the weave, with two sets of warp and weft. A heavy single cloth is one continuous weave, so it has one face and no true reversibility.<\/p>\n

Is double cloth the same as a double knit?<\/strong>
No. Double cloth is a woven construction with two faces; double knit is a knitted structure. They differ in drape, deforming, and how they behave at the cutter.<\/p>\n

Does a double cloth coat still need a lining?<\/strong>
Usually not. That is the point, the second face acts as the lining, which saves a sewing operation and reduces weight. Some designs still add a partial lining for finishing at the neck or hem.<\/p>\n

What should I test on a double cloth before bulk?<\/strong>
Seam slippage and interlock strength, separate colorfastness and pilling on each face, and shrink behavior of the combined structure, so the two faces do not pucker after a clean.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n