{"id":10837,"date":"2026-10-15T21:39:53","date_gmt":"2026-10-16T05:39:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/abrasion-test-basis-jacketing-tweed-apparel-vs-upholstery\/"},"modified":"2026-10-27T11:38:33","modified_gmt":"2026-10-27T19:38:33","slug":"abrasion-test-basis-jacketing-tweed-apparel-vs-upholstery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/abrasion-test-basis-jacketing-tweed-apparel-vs-upholstery\/","title":{"rendered":"Sofa Abrasion Grade on a Coat Spec: What to Ask the Lab"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Ask the lab to report abrasion resistance on the apparel basis, not the upholstery basis: ISO 12947-2, Martindale method, garment load (nominal 9 kPa, about 595 g of effective mass on the abrading head), standard wool abradant, endpoint at specimen breakdown, and results written as cycles to breakdown with warp and weft reported separately. A figure copied from an upholstery specification was produced on the same instrument at the heavier 12 kPa load, so it answers a different question and cannot be pasted onto a coat. If the lab can run only one basis, run the apparel version and have the report state in plain words that upholstery Martindale figures are not to be used for acceptance. If your buyer\u2019s QA insists on their number, ask for both bases on one report, each line labelled with the load it was run at.<\/p>\n<h2>Why an Upholstery Abrasion Figure Does Not Travel to a Coat<\/h2>\n<p>Both numbers come off the same machine. The Martindale method rubs a circular test piece against an abradant under a stated load and counts the cycles until the cloth fails, and the same instrument is used for furniture, workwear, coatings and shirtings. What changes between end uses is the load class, the abradant, the endpoint and the way the result is written down. Readers who want the mechanics of the wear itself can start from the general entry on <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Abrasion_(mechanical)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">abrasion<\/a>; what matters in a specification is that a cycle count is a product of those settings, not a property of the cloth standing alone.<\/p>\n<p>The load class is the setting that moves first, and it is usually the one missing from the figure your buyer sent. The apparel class runs at a nominal 9 kPa, about 595 g of effective mass on the abrading head. The upholstery and heavy technical class runs at 12 kPa, about 795 g. Under the heavier load the abradant presses harder, the yarns fatigue sooner, and the cloth breaks down in fewer cycles. A jacketing tweed that reaches a given count under the garment load will not reach that same count under the furniture load, and a furniture figure carried across to a coat has not been tested the way the coat will wear.<\/p>\n<p>The endpoint matters as much as the load. Cycles to specimen breakdown, cycles to a fixed agreed count, mass loss in milligrams, and an appearance rating after rubbing are four different outputs. A report that names none of them gives you a number that cannot be repeated, and a number that cannot be repeated cannot settle a claim.<\/p>\n<p>The machine family matters too. In North America, contract upholstery clauses are often written as Wyzenbeek double rubs under ASTM D4157, a back and forth rub on a different machine with a different abradant. Double rubs and Martindale cycles do not convert, no matter how tidy the spreadsheet looks. If the number in the buyer\u2019s specification was lifted from a furniture clause, find out which machine produced it before arguing about the value.<\/p>\n<p>One more thing the standard will not do for you. ISO 12947-2 tells the lab how to run the test and how to decide that the cloth has broken down. It does not hand out a pass level for a coat, a jacket or a bag. The level a buyer requires comes from the buyer, from a retailer\u2019s own manual, or from a national furniture performance document that was written for seating. When a QA sheet arrives as a bare number with no method behind it, the first question is not whether the tweed can reach the number. The first question is what the number was measured under.<\/p>\n<h2>The Test Basis to Name in the Lab Request<\/h2>\n<p>Write the request so the report cannot drift. Name the standard and its edition, name the load class and the endpoint, and ask for the result in the exact form you will file. The lines below are what a lab needs in writing before a test starts, and they are also what lets a second lab reproduce the result later, which is what makes the number usable when cloth is in dispute. Where the lab works to the ASTM route rather than the ISO route, ASTM D4966 covers the same Martindale method, and the load class, abradant and endpoint still have to be stated, because that text is careful about how laboratory cycles should be read.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/fursone.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/%E5%BE%AE%E4%BF%A1%E5%9B%BE%E7%89%87_20260908094841_105_4.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a grey, black, pink and white checked jacketing tweed spread across a work table\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Standard and edition: ISO 12947-2:2016, Martindale method, or the ASTM D4966 equivalent if that is the route the lab runs.<\/li>\n<li>Load class: apparel, nominal 9 kPa, about 595 g effective mass. Not the upholstery and heavy technical class.<\/li>\n<li>Abradant: the standard wool abradant named by the method, with the abradant type written on the report.<\/li>\n<li>Conditioning: test pieces conditioned to the standard textile atmosphere (ISO 139, 20 plus or minus 2 C and 65 plus or minus 2 percent relative humidity) and described as conditioned on the report.<\/li>\n<li>Endpoint: specimen breakdown, with the breakdown criterion the lab applied named on the report.<\/li>\n<li>Reporting: cycles to breakdown for warp and weft separately, the individual result for every test piece, the mean, and the lowest result.<\/li>\n<li>Sample state: finished cloth as it will ship, tested face up as supplied, with the finish route (washed, milled, raised, brushed) and any after treatment named.<\/li>\n<li>Sample identity: the piece and the lot that will ship, cut from the body of the cloth, clear of the selvedge and clear of the first metres off the loom.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Two practical points save a round of argument later. On a heavy coating the count can run long, so agree a target count with the lab in advance and accept a report that states the test pieces survived that count without breakdown; that is a normal report line and it settles acceptance without pushing the test past the point the file needs. Then ask the lab how it inspects and how it writes the outcome, including the interval at which it stops to look at the test pieces, so that your acceptance level and the buyer\u2019s level sit on the same grid.<\/p>\n<h2>The Word Grade Often Hides a Different Test<\/h2>\n<p>Buyers ask for an abrasion grade, and a lab can answer that request in more than one currency. A grade usually means a rating against a reference scale, and a rating is not a cycle count. The ISO 12947 family shares one rubbing setup across its parts, and the parts differ in what is measured: the apparatus, the determination of specimen breakdown, the determination of mass loss, and the assessment of appearance change. A request for cycles to breakdown lands in one part of the family. A request for a grade after rubbing lands in another. Both are legitimate evidence, they are simply not the same evidence and they do not sit on the same scale.<\/p>\n<p>Pilling is the other place a grade can come from. Martindale pilling under ISO 12945-2 uses a modified Martindale setup with a different head and a shorter rubbing stroke, and the result is a rating against reference photographs rather than a breakdown count. A raised or brushed tweed that fuzzes and balls in wear fails differently from one that wears thin at the cuff, and the two failures are reported on different scales. If the buyer\u2019s file says Martindale grade 4, confirm whether that was a pilling grade or an appearance grade before the value goes anywhere near a purchase order.<\/p>\n<p>Ask for the test report page rather than the typed summary line in the buyer\u2019s sheet. The report carries the standard, the edition, the load, the abradant, the conditioning and the endpoint criterion. The summary usually carries a number and a hope. The same discipline applies to every lab value on a tweed file, not only abrasion, so when a buyer asks you to <a href=\"\/ru\/tweed-light-fastness-window-fading-next-lot\/\">hold the light grade to a named method<\/a> the question to ask is identical: which standard, which condition, which scale. If the buyer\u2019s clause has no report behind it, the honest answer is that the number cannot be checked, and a fresh test on the apparel basis is the way to replace it with something that can.<\/p>\n<h2>What the Report Should Carry, and Which Lab Should Sign It<\/h2>\n<p>Use a laboratory whose accreditation covers the method, so that the paper holds when a claim is on the table. An accredited scope for the abrasion method, a named test piece, and a report signed by the person who ran the instrument are the difference between evidence and an opinion. A report from a bench with no scope for the method can be dismissed by a buyer\u2019s QA without anyone discussing the cloth at all.<\/p>\n<p>Ask for one line in plain words: the figures were obtained under the apparel load class and are not comparable with upholstery Martindale figures. That single sentence prevents the next argument, because the number can no longer be quietly reused as a sofa figure or as a furniture prediction later in the programme. If the buyer wants their own basis in the file, report both on one sheet with each line labelled, and never accept a single unlabelled value in a column headed abrasion.<\/p>\n<p>Run the test twice in the life of an order, not once. An abrasion figure from the approval sample says what the cloth could do. A figure from the shipping lot says what the metres in the container do, and only that second figure belongs in the inspection file. Put the requirement in the order so the bulk test is run on the lot that ships. The same principle governs the rest of the mill\u2019s evidence, which is why an audit of <a href=\"\/ru\/textile-mill-lab-audit-before-releasing-order\/\">the mill\u2019s own lab before an order is released<\/a> is a sensible step when you cannot be at the machine.<\/p>\n<h2>What a Flat Rub Does Not Measure on a Coat<\/h2>\n<p>Wear on a coat does not arrive as a flat rub on a flat specimen. It concentrates at the cuff, the elbow, the front edge behind the buttons and wherever a bag strap crosses the shoulder, and much of it arrives as flexing and edge abrasion rather than as uniform rubbing across the cloth. A good Martindale result is worth having, and it is one axis, not a verdict on the garment.<\/p>\n<p>The inside of the cloth wears too. A lining and its interlining rub the back of the jacket cloth at the armhole, the back neck and the sleeve head, and that surface rarely gets tested. If the report does not say which face was tested, the number is attached to a surface you cannot identify. Ask for the tested face to be named as supplied.<\/p>\n<p>Finish state changes the answer as well. A milled, raised or brushed coating is a different surface from the greige it came from, so the test piece has to be cut from finished, merchantable cloth and not from a loom-state length kept in a drawer. Where the coat will be dry cleaned in service, decide on the file whether the abrasion test runs before or after the care cycle, write that decision down, and keep it the same at the bulk test, because a figure produced on the as-shipped cloth and a figure produced after cleaning are not interchangeable either.<\/p>\n<h2>Wording You Can Send Today<\/h2>\n<p>For the order or specification: abrasion resistance to be reported under ISO 12947-2, Martindale method, apparel load class, nominal 9 kPa, standard wool abradant, endpoint at specimen breakdown, with cycles to breakdown reported for warp and weft and the test run on the shipping lot. Upholstery load class figures are informational only and are not the acceptance basis.<\/p>\n<p>For the laboratory: please test the submitted jacketing tweed to ISO 12947-2:2016, Martindale method, apparel load class at a nominal 9 kPa, standard wool abradant, endpoint at specimen breakdown, and report cycles to breakdown for warp and weft with the individual results, the mean and the lowest result. Condition the test pieces to the standard textile atmosphere and state the conditioning, the abradant and the breakdown criterion you applied on the report. Do not report the upholstery load class result unless we ask for it separately.<\/p>\n<p>For the buyer\u2019s QA: the figure in your specification was produced on the upholstery load class, so it cannot be used as an acceptance level for a coat. We are reporting the apparel load class figure and we will add the upholstery figure alongside it if you need it for your file, clearly labelled and marked as informational. If your team needs a pass level, send it in writing with the method it came from, and we will confirm it against the cloth before the lot ships.<\/p>\n<p>None of this requires a fight. It requires one line in the request that names the basis, one line on the report that limits the reading, and one line in the order that puts the test on the lot that ships. A sofa value in a coat specification is not a quality problem in the cloth. It is a paperwork problem, and paperwork is easier to correct than a coat that has already been cut.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ask the lab to report abrasion resistance on the apparel basis, not the upholstery basis: ISO 12947-2, Martindale method, garment load (nominal 9 kPa, about 595 g of effective mass on the abrading head), standard wool abradant, endpoint at specimen breakdown, and results written as cycles to breakdown with warp and weft reported separately. A &#8230; <a title=\"Sofa Abrasion Grade on a Coat Spec: What to Ask the Lab\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/abrasion-test-basis-jacketing-tweed-apparel-vs-upholstery\/\" aria-label=\"\u041f\u0440\u043e\u0447\u0438\u0442\u0430\u0442\u044c \u0431\u043e\u043b\u044c\u0448\u0435 \u043e Sofa Abrasion Grade on a Coat Spec: What to Ask the Lab\">\u0427\u0438\u0442\u0430\u0442\u044c \u0434\u0430\u043b\u0435\u0435<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3036,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"rank_math_title":"","rank_math_description":"","rank_math_focus_keyword":"","rank_math_robots":"","rank_math_canonical_url":"","rank_math_facebook_title":"","rank_math_facebook_description":"","rank_math_twitter_title":"","rank_math_twitter_description":"","_yoast_wpseo_title":"","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"","_yoast_wpseo_focuskw":"","_yoast_wpseo_canonical":"","_yoast_wpseo_meta-robots-noindex":"","_yoast_wpseo_meta-robots-nofollow":"","_yoast_wpseo_opengraph-title":"","_yoast_wpseo_opengraph-description":"","_yoast_wpseo_twitter-title":"","_yoast_wpseo_twitter-description":"","_aioseo_title":"","_aioseo_description":"","_aioseo_keywords":"","_aioseo_robots_default":"","_aioseo_robots_noindex":"","_aioseo_og_title":"","_aioseo_og_description":"","_aioseo_twitter_title":"","_aioseo_twitter_description":"","aiosp_title":"","aiosp_description":"","aiosp_keywords":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_genesis_title":"","_genesis_description":"","_genesis_canonical":"","_genesis_noindex":"","_genesis_nofollow":"","slim_seo":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[315,311],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10837","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cost-logistics","category-fabric-knowledge"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10837","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10837"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10837\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11021,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10837\/revisions\/11021"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3036"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10837"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10837"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fursone.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10837"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}