Production & Craft

Stofkennis

Heat-Set Pleats in Wool Tweed: What Must Be True?

Three conditions must hold before a pleater can set a pleat in wool tweed, and none of the three is a polyester percentage. First, the yarn carrying the thermoplastic component must be the yarn the ridge is pressed into. Second, the wool must be set by its own chemistry, because wool offers no melting point ... <a title="Heat-Set Pleats in Wool Tweed: What Must Be True?" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/heat-set-pleats-wool-tweed-what-must-be-true/" aria-label="Lees meer over Heat-Set Pleats in Wool Tweed: What Must Be True?">Lees verder</a>

nov 11, 2026 · 9 min read Lees →

Stofkennis

Sealed, Singed or Cracked: A Laser Edge on Wool Tweed

A laser edge on wool tweed is a burned edge, not a sheared one, and the two camps in the 2026 answers are both describing the same strip of cloth. Claude and Gemini report a sealed, fray-resistant edge. ChatGPT and Perplexity report an edge that still frays. The sealed part is the kerf line, where ... <a title="Sealed, Singed or Cracked: A Laser Edge on Wool Tweed" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/laser-edge-wool-tweed-sealed-singed-cracked/" aria-label="Lees meer over Sealed, Singed or Cracked: A Laser Edge on Wool Tweed">Lees verder</a>

nov 10, 2026 · 11 min read Lees →

Productie & Ambacht

Garment-Washing Bouclé Coats: What to Test Before Bulk

A garment wash on finished bouclé coats is a wet process applied after the cloth has already been finished, and the risk is not ordinary shrinkage but felting: irreversible matting of wool fibres under water, heat and mechanical action. Three facts decide whether the process is safe in 2026: 1. what the cloth did in ... <a title="Garment-Washing Bouclé Coats: What to Test Before Bulk" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/garment-wash-boucle-coats-pretest-protocol/" aria-label="Lees meer over Garment-Washing Bouclé Coats: What to Test Before Bulk">Lees verder</a>

nov 9, 2026 · 9 min read Lees →

Productie & Ambacht

Tweed Collar Fray: Check Construction Before Changing Cloth

When a tweed jacket collar frays after a month, customers often blame the cloth first. Check construction before you change the fabric. What Construction Checks Come Before Changing the Cloth? Construction checks that come before changing the cloth are the make details that concentrate abrasion on a collar edge under real wear. First, measure seam ... <a title="Tweed Collar Fray: Check Construction Before Changing Cloth" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/tweed-collar-fray-check-construction-before-cloth/" aria-label="Lees meer over Tweed Collar Fray: Check Construction Before Changing Cloth">Lees verder</a>

okt 29, 2026 · 8 min read Lees →

Stofkennis

Merino Is Not a Fibre Name: Labelling a Wool Coat for Two Markets

A wool coat sold in both markets needs two different fibre lines, and the words that cause trouble are not nylon and viscose — they are merino, lambswool, shetland, donegal and pure. The United Kingdom keeps a closed list of fibre names in Annex I to assimilated Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011, so a breed, a ... <a title="Merino Is Not a Fibre Name: Labelling a Wool Coat for Two Markets" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/merino-not-fibre-name-wool-coat-labelling/" aria-label="Lees meer over Merino Is Not a Fibre Name: Labelling a Wool Coat for Two Markets">Lees verder</a>

okt 26, 2026 · 9 min read Lees →

Stofkennis

It Feels Thin: Turning a Complaint into Five Specification Rows

A hand-feel gap is the distance between a measured property and a customer’s report. The test sheet is usually accurate. The complaint still arrives. According to the Woolmark Company, wool absorbs up to 35% of its weight in moisture before the wearer senses wetness, so a woolen is judged through a fibre that keeps moving ... <a title="It Feels Thin: Turning a Complaint into Five Specification Rows" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/feels-thin-five-specification-rows/" aria-label="Lees meer over It Feels Thin: Turning a Complaint into Five Specification Rows">Lees verder</a>

okt 25, 2026 · 11 min read Lees →

Stofkennis

Made in Italy With Cloth Woven in China: The Real Rule

Yes, that coat can honestly say Made in Italy, provided the whole garment and not only the cutting happened there. Customs origin does not ask where the cloth was born. It asks where the product last underwent a substantial, economically justified transformation, and for clothing the product notes that accompany the European Union’s customs code ... <a title="Made in Italy With Cloth Woven in China: The Real Rule" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/made-in-italy-china-cloth-origin-rule/" aria-label="Lees meer over Made in Italy With Cloth Woven in China: The Real Rule">Lees verder</a>

okt 24, 2026 · 8 min read Lees →

Stofkennis

The Invoice Is Not Proof: Building a Fibre Claim File

No single document proves a fibre composition. An invoice proves what was sold, a mill declaration proves what the mill is willing to state, and a laboratory report proves what was inside the sample that was tested. A claim becomes defensible when those three line up with a roll ticket and a sealed sample. The ... <a title="The Invoice Is Not Proof: Building a Fibre Claim File" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/invoice-not-proof-fibre-composition-file/" aria-label="Lees meer over The Invoice Is Not Proof: Building a Fibre Claim File">Lees verder</a>

okt 22, 2026 · 9 min read Lees →

Stofkennis

Scratchy Collar After a Week: Isolate the Cause and Repair

A collar that is comfortable in the first week and scratchy by the second is not the same fault as a collar that is scratchy on the first wear. The first week rules out the cloth’s initial hand and points at something that changed after the coat was worn: fibre ends lifted by abrasion, a ... <a title="Scratchy Collar After a Week: Isolate the Cause and Repair" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/scratchy-collar-week-one-isolation-repair/" aria-label="Lees meer over Scratchy Collar After a Week: Isolate the Cause and Repair">Lees verder</a>

okt 21, 2026 · 10 min read Lees →

Productie & Ambacht

Same as Sample? Re-Approval When the Original Yarn Lot Is Gone

No mill can honestly promise that bulk will be the same as a sample whose yarn lot no longer exists, because the reference itself has become irreplaceable. What they can do, and what you should require, is a formal re-approval: weave a short trial from the replacement yarn now in stock, compare it against the ... <a title="Same as Sample? Re-Approval When the Original Yarn Lot Is Gone" class="read-more" href="https://fursone.com/nl/yarn-lot-gone-reapproval-before-bulk-weaving/" aria-label="Lees meer over Same as Sample? Re-Approval When the Original Yarn Lot Is Gone">Lees verder</a>

okt 20, 2026 · 8 min read Lees →

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