Shared Warp Beam, 90 Metres: Second Warp Lot at Handover

A shared warp beam is one wound warp sheet that two orders occupy in sequence, and the beam itself adds no second warp lot. What adds a lot is a change of warp yarn lot inside the beam, or a tie-in where a second beam is knotted onto the first at the loom. A 90 metre order can carry both, and neither shows on an invoice. Three checks settle the question at handover: the beam card for a lot-change metre, the loom record for a tie-in metre, and the roll ticket for both positions measured from the piece head. ISO 22198 fixes how fabric length is measured, so a ticket without a method is an opinion rather than evidence. A 2% length tolerance written into the order turns those checks into a claim. The sections below name each record and the order line that forces the mill to declare the break.

Does a Shared Warp Beam Put a Second Warp Lot Inside My Delivery?

A shared warp beam is a single set of warp ends, wound to one set length, that two orders occupy in sequence. Beam sharing alone changes nothing about the yarn: 100% of a 90 metre piece can come off a shared beam while 0% of the yarn differs from the approved lot. A second warp lot enters in two ways only. First, the warper changes yarn lot while filling the beam, at a metre position the beam card should carry. Second, the weaver ties a new beam onto the exhausted one, and the knot band marks the join. Both are lot events; the shared beam is not. Ask one question and demand one number: at which metre on beam B does a lot change or a tie-in sit? For example, a tie-in at metre 40 of a 90 metre piece lands inside the cutting plan.

How Do Set Length and Warp Waste Split a 90 Metre Order?

A warp beam is a flanged cylinder carrying a fixed number of ends over a fixed length, and both numbers are set before the first metre is woven. Set length equals the pieces assigned to the beam plus warp waste: yarn lost at the head, at the tail, and in the fringe between pieces. Waste is a mill figure and belongs on the beam card, not in a verbal estimate. A 90 metre order is therefore one segment of a longer set length, bounded by two cut marks. The buying unit is the segment, not the beam, and segment evidence is an offset: metre 1 to metre 90 of piece P on beam B. Mill planning decides where those cut marks fall. For example, a 300 to 390 metre segment carries two cut marks, and neither mark can move once the beam is wound.

Where Does the Warp Sheet Change Hands on One Beam?

A handover on a beam is a length offset, not a physical join. When two orders share one beam, the end of the first piece and the start of the second sit a few centimetres apart, separated by fringe and by the cut that frees the first piece. The warp sheet never breaks, so no knot band appears at the handover, and the second customer’s cloth can be continuous with the first in yarn terms. What changes at the offset is the weaving programme: reed, pick density and weft may change for the next order. Ask for the cut plan, and check that the segment allocated to the 90 metre order is bounded by declared cut marks, not the weaver’s convenience. In practice, a handover inside a piece, rather than at a cut mark, is the first thing to challenge.

What Does Tying-In Do at the Loom Back?

Tying-in is the end-to-end joining of a new warp sheet to the exhausted one, so fresh yarn is pulled through the healds and reed without a drawing-in. The join carries 100% of the ends, so every end holds a knot at the same metre and the knots pass the reed in one band. The first picks behind the band can sit tighter or looser than the body of the cloth. Grading follows the frame: a knot band plus the picks around it is a defect cluster per ASTM D5430 unless the order says otherwise, and a defect longer than 9 inches already scores the maximum 4 points. Position is the issue on a short order. A tie-in at a piece head is a declared feature; a tie-in at metre 40 of a 90 metre piece is a band inside the cutting plan, with different beams either side.

Where Exactly Does a Second Warp Lot Enter the Cloth?

A warp lot break is a change of dyed yarn lot inside the warp sheet, and the cloth shows the event as a line across or along the piece. The event sits on the beam at a metre position, because warping fills the beam from head to tail and a lot change happens at one point in that fill. Two records fix the point. The beam card lists every lot used and the metre where the lot changed. The loom record carries the beam number and the metres woven from that beam. Neither record is standard paperwork everywhere, which is why the order line has to demand both. Ask for the lot-change metre first, then the tie-in metre, then the cut metre. For example, a card listing two lots and no metres cannot answer at all.

Full-Width Band or Lengthwise Streak: Which Break Is It?

The shape of the shade line names the cause. A full-width band running straight across the piece from selvedge to selvedge means 100% of the warp sheet changed lot at one beam length, so every end switched at the same metre. A lengthwise streak running with the warp over part of the width means only some ends differ: a partly replenished creel, a replacement cone during warping, or a repaired end group. The first is a scheduled event a beam card can predict; the second is usually an unplanned substitution and deserves a written explanation. Grade either one under ASTM D5430 on the frame, measure colour difference instrumentally against the approved standard, and let the order fix the limit. The selvedge stays straight either side of a band, so finishing cannot pull the line out. In practice, the band decides cutting; the streak decides colour approval.

Which Records Carry the Beam Number and the Warp Lot?

Four records carry the evidence, and each answers a different question. The beam card, or warping ticket, answers what was wound: beam number, warp lot, yarn lots with metre positions, end count, set length and warping date. The loom record answers what was woven: loom number, beam fitted, metres woven, and every tie-in with a metre. The roll ticket answers what was shipped: piece number, net length, width, weight, beam reference, and the tie-in metre from the piece head. The inspection report answers what was seen. A claim survives on the first three and is settled by the fourth. Ask for the set as a package, because a ticket without a card cannot be checked against anything. Net length on the ticket should follow ISO 22198, and a 2% gap between ticket and tape measure triggers a re-measure.

What Has to Appear on the Warp Beam Card?

A beam card is the warping record for one beam, and the fields that matter on a short order are the ones most cards omit. Beam number and warping date identify the object. End count and set length in metres define the sheet. Yarn lot, with a metre position for every lot used, is the field that answers the buyer’s question, and a card listing two lots without positions is incomplete. The warping machine and section count belong there too, because a section boundary is another place a lot can change. Finish with the cut plan: which order occupies which metre range. Where a count dispute is possible, the card should name the ISO 2060 skein method behind the count. Skein length is held to 0.2% under that method, so the count is reproducible. Thread density on the same sheet can then be checked to ISO 7211-2:2024.

Which Five Records Do You Compare at Handover?

The handover set is a five-record chain from beam to carton. Each record answers a question the next one cannot. Compare the chain row by row, on the roll, before cutting. First, match the card’s beam number to the ticket’s beam reference. A mismatch means a second beam. Second, compare the lot-change metre and the tie-in metre with the 2% tolerance. Third, hold inspection points to the agreed ceiling per 100 square yards. A closed chain is evidence; an open chain is a question.

How Does the Roll Ticket Map to the Tie-In Metre?

A roll ticket is the piece-level record tying a cut length to one beam and to the warp lots on that beam. The mapping has three parts. 1. Net piece length in metres. 2. Distance from the piece head to any tie-in. 3. Distance from the tie-in to the piece tail. Add the three, compare the sum with the beam set length under a 2% tolerance, and let warp waste explain the rest. Net length should follow ISO 22198, so the ticket names a method rather than describing a tape measure. For example, a 90 metre piece with a tie-in at metre 40 splits into 40 and 50, and panels from each side come from different warp continuity. Write a 1% mismatch trigger: a sum outside that band means a second beam. In practice, the metre is the only figure a cutter can act on.

How Do You Confirm the Break Before the Roll Is Cut?

Confirmation happens at goods-in, before the roll is cut, and the sequence is fixed. First, tag every roll with piece number and beam reference while the cartons are still sealed, because a mixed stack destroys the mapping; the ratio and carton mark audit covers the marking check. Second, open the piece the ticket flags and inspect the declared tie-in zone on the frame, one metre each side, under the lighting written into the order. Third, grade zone and body separately under ASTM D5430, so a band is not averaged away across 90 metres. Fourth, mark the band on the face with removable tape and photograph the ticket beside the mark. Fifth, cut panels around the band where the pattern allows. A band found after cutting is a cloth claim; the same band found before cutting is a cutting instruction.

How Do You Write a Single-Beam Order Line and Price It?

A single-beam order line is a restriction on warping, and it needs three parts to carry weight. The first part names the restriction: no warp yarn lot change inside the 90 metre segment, and no tie-in inside the segment. The second part names the beam the mill must wind for that restriction, stated in metres, because a dedicated beam costs a set-up whoever supplies the yarn. The third part names evidence and remedy: beam card, loom record and roll ticket per roll, a re-inspection window, and who carries the cost of a band found inside the segment. A mill will usually quote a beam set-up charge rather than a rate per metre, so the same charge spreads over fewer metres on a short order, and 100% of it sits on 90 metres. Compare the surcharge per metre delivered, and keep the lot proof and shade band file beside the руководство по закупкам so the next short run inherits the terms.