Stofklassificering: A-, B- og C-kvalitetsruller forklaret

Fabric roll grading into A, B, and C qualities is a commercial convention mills use to sort first-quality cloth from rolls with visual or structural deviations. Grade A meets the full spec and ships at list price; Grade B carries minor, often hidden defects and sells at a discount; Grade C has visible or repeated defects and moves into non-apparel uses.

The labels are not one universal standard, though, so the grading language only protects you once it is tied to written defect criteria. This guide explains what each grade typically contains, how grading connects to formal inspection systems, and what buyers should pin down in writing before accepting a discounted lot.

What A, B, and C actually separate

Grade A is first quality: the roll meets every clause of the agreed spec, composition, weight, shade, width, and defect limits, and it is what your purchase contract describes. Grade B usually means the fabric is structurally sound but carries cosmetic deviations: a shade band slightly off the approved lab dip, minor slubs outside the agreed tolerance, a narrow selvedge stain, or short sections of weaving irregularity. Mills sell B grade at a discount precisely because the defects are survivable for many end uses, especially when they fall in cutting waste or hidden garment zones. Grade C collects the rolls where defects are frequent or severe enough to cut usable yield sharply: repeating weaving faults, dye streaks across the width, holes, or contamination. The honest way to think about the ladder is risk placement, A places no risk on you, B places judgment risk, C places yield risk.

Grading is convention; inspection is standard

Here is the caution that saves money: A, B, and C are not defined by a single international standard, and the boundary between them varies mill by mill. One mill’s B is another mill’s C. The professional fix is to anchor grading to a recognized inspection framework so the letters carry measurable meaning. The textile industry’s workhorse is the 4-point system, which scores defects by size and sums penalty points per linear meter; buyers set an acceptance ceiling and any roll above it is rejected or re-graded. The method is maintained under ASTM International standards, and we broke down how the scoring works in practice in our 4-point inspection guide for buyers. Pair it with a statistical sampling plan for the lot, the AQL approach we covered in our AQL sampling guide, and the grade letters stop being a supplier opinion and become an inspection outcome.

Where Grade B makes sense, and where it quietly costs more

Discounted B-grade rolls genuinely earn their place in some programs. If you cut small pattern pieces, run a sampling line, or produce items where the fabric’s reverse or interior faces outward wear, a documented B lot can cut material cost without touching quality perception. The trap is buying B for applications that expose the whole cloth surface, full-width shirting panels, large coat fronts, upholstery faces, because the discount rarely compensates for the yield loss and the sorting labor at the cutting table. Run the math on usable meters, not invoice meters: a B lot at 70 percent of price but 80 percent usable yield is more expensive per good meter than A grade at full price. Shade-sensitive programs add a second risk, since off-lot dyeing behaves differently under light and next to approved trims; if shade consistency across bulk matters to you, our vejledning om farveparti-konsistens forklarer, hvordan væverier styrer det, og hvad grænserne er.

Sådan udfører væverier som vores sorteringen

På vores væveri foregår sorteringen ved to porte. Den første er under inspektion på inspektionsrammen efter finish, hvor uddannet personale registrerer fejl i forhold til 4-punktsscoren og kundens specifikationsark; ruller over den aftalte grænse trækkes automatisk ud af førstekvalitet frem for ved forhandling. Den anden port er før-afsendelsesrevisionen af pakkede partier, hvor statistisk stikprøvekontrol hører til. På tværs af 300+ væve tilbagemeldes fejlmønstre også til vævesalen, spænding, anslag og hastighedsparametre er de sædvanlige håndtag, og forholdet mellem disse indstillinger og stofkvalitet er dokumenteret i vores artikel om væveparametre. Købere, der besøger eller reviderer, bør bede om at se begge registreringer: inspektionsloggene pr. rulle og stikprøverapporten på partiniveau. Et væveri, der kan fremvise begge, sorterer efter system; et væveri, der kun kan fremvise ordet “A”, sorterer efter vurdering. Vores linje med uldne overcoatstoffer kører med den samme to-porte-struktur, med acceptgrænsen skrevet ind i ordrebekræftelsen.

Hvad skal der skrives i indkøbsordren

• Inspektionsmetoden og acceptgrænsen: nævn udtrykkeligt 4-punktmetoden og det maksimale antal point pr. løbende meter eller pr. 100 kvadratmeter.
• Stikprøveplanen: stikprøvestørrelse og AQL-niveau for partiaccept, ikke kun rulle-for-rulle-sortering.
• Hvad sker der med ruller, der ikke består: erstatning, kreditnota eller omgraderingspriser, besluttes før en tvist opstår.
• Farvereference: Det godkendte laboratorie-dip- eller blanketprøve-ID, som Grade A-farven måles op imod.
• Fejlmarkering: Om fejl er markeret med klistermærker eller kantmarkeringer, så dine skærere kan arbejde uden om dem.

Fem linjer, alle sammen billige at tilføje og dyre at undvære. Hvis en leverandør modsætter sig at nedfælde klassificeringskriterierne skriftligt, er den modstand i sig selv den klassificeringsinformation, du havde brug for.

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